Bodegas Calar
Abrego 2018

The vast La Mancha area in the centre of Spain is mostly home to forgettable wines made in large quantities. However, the occasional “diamond in the rough” exists, like Bodegas Calar. Located in the middle of nowhere, several hours South of Madrid, Calar is a family owned winery with about 100 hectares of vines. However, they sell about 80% of their production so that the 20% of grapes they keep can be made into two small-production, top-quality cuvees: Abrego and Calar. The Abrego is grown on a clay base, which helps to retain some water in this dry, almost desert climate. Abrego is made from 100% tempranillo grown on volcanic soil. “Soil” is a bit of an exaggeration, the vines are found among large angular rocks that seem to allow nothing else to grow from it. Just walking between rows risks a turned ankle! The area is also quite dry, with less than 400mm of rain per year. As a result, they have no need for pesticides or herbicides. Although they are not certified organic, they are practically so, using local sheep manure for fertilizer, natural, wild yeasts for fermentation and just small amounts of sulphur to ensure microbial stability and cleanliness. This is very much an artisanal winery. Everything is hand-picked and hand-sorted on two selection tables. Grapes are crushed by foot (using rubber boots, not bare feet!).Abrego has 9 months in a combination of new and used French barriques. Just 22,000 bottes are produced annually.

The colour is deep ruby with smoky blackberry, cherry pit and a touch of licorice on the fragrant nose. The palate is smooth and ripe with sweet blackberry and cherry flavours being supported by spicy black pepper. The smoky quality repeats on the still-youthfully, tannic finish that leaves a note of dark chocolate, Enjoy now or cellar for up to 5 years.

Enjoy this with red meats or pisto, which is a dish from Castilla-La Mancha made of tomatoes, onions, eggplant or zucchini, green and red peppers, and olive oil. The Spanish equivalent of ratatouille.