Silvano Bolmida
Barolo Bussia 2020

This is an exciting new discovery in the Barolo area of Piedmont. Silvano Bolmida along with children Francesco and Allessandra are making beautiful wines from their own vineyards, mostly in Bussia. The wines they make are texturally unique, but unmistakably Barolo.

Silvano spent a decade experimenting with methods to bring out the maximum expression of his unique slice of Bussia. His methods are not easy to classify by any readily known terms such as Traditional or Modern. Classifying the results is far easier. Stupendous and absolutely delicious!

Aside from fastidious cleanliness, the two major areas where Silvano veers off onto his own path are extended post fermentation macerations and elevage. In an era where macerating for 30 days is considered quite traditional, what do you call it when one leaves the wine on its skins for up to 95 days? But then the wine goes into 100% French Barriques for the first year, none of it new, and specially treated to provide maximal micro-oxygenation and minimal oak flavor infusion. These are stunning and unique wines that represent great value in the ever escalating Barolo zone. Bussia is one of the largest “Cru” vineyards in Barolo. Accordingly there is quite a good deal of style and quality variation as one moves from section to section. Silvano’s section is the highest in altitude, giving his wines an elegance rarely found. His elevage for this wine always takes a little more time. The wine itself, more still. This deep, brooding Barolo has an elegance, even with its weight, like all Silvano’s wines. Macerated for 75 days on the skins and aged in neutral barriques for one year on its lees, then 14 months in 30 Hl barrels.

2020 is a classic vintage: quite good but not as instantly recognizable as the three warm vintages which follow it. The vines were never stressed, with periods of rainfall roughly every 9 to 12 days. Flowering was successful with very little stress, followed by rather large berry sizes from the start. This was also during the start of the pandemic, and producers found themselves with a lot of additional time to walk their vineyards. The wines are approachable in their structure, retaining good acidity levels and an easygoing tannin profile.

“The ruby-colored 2020 Barolo Bussia lifts with ripe notes of mixed berries and cherry candies, toasted cedar, pressed flowers, and sweet herbs. It has a medium-bodied frame on the palate, with ripe concentration and good freshness, as well as refined tannins that turn a touch dusty on the finish. All in all, it’s a very nice wine to enjoy over the next 6-8 years.” Score 92, Jeb Dunnock, May 2024