This domaine, located in the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, has built a solid reputation over the years as producing rich, ripe red wines, so it’s interesting to see that winemaker Thierry Usseglio has been increasing the use of whole bunches and use of amphorae. One of the nice things about this estate is that there is a clear delineation of quality throughout the range. While still rich and ripe, this is made in a very refined and elegant style.
This is a blend of Grenache (80%), Syrah (10%), Cinsault (5%) and Mourvedre (5%). The grapes for this cuvee come from several of the family’s vineyards with soils of sand, clay, limestone and rolled stones. This diversity of terroir gives a lovely complexity. The vines are between 35 and 75 years old. The grapes harvested manually with about 60% of the the bunches destemmed. It is aged for 12 months in a combination of barrique, double barrels and concrete. It shows typical kirsch, blackberry and black olive notes. There is a hint of cake spice as well as being quite floral. On the palate it is silky and smooth, a very elegant Chatauneuf du Pape in an appellation that is becoming heavy and clunky.
The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Première Pierre is game-on. Clear-cut raspberry, strawberry, licorice, rose petal and dried herbs are all nicely delineated. Packed with ample concentration and intensity, the full-bodied 2022 hits the palate with a juicy core of ripe fruits and is enveloped by polished tannins that lend gentle structure. Despite the lofty 15.5% alcohol, the wine’s overall freshness is neatly maintained. The 2022 concludes with persistence on the round and savory finish. Drinking window: 2027 – 2041 Score 93, Nicholas Greinacher, Vinous, June 2024
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